Apa Beda Songket dan Tenun Ikat

penenun menggunakan alat tenun bukan mesin (ATBM)
penenun menggunakan alat tenun bukan mesin (ATBM)

Banyak dari kita kadang bertanya-tanya , beberapa jenis  kain tenun di Indonesia ini punya penyebutan nama yang beragam. Paling sering kita dengar di telinga adalah kain tenun songket dan kain tenun ikat. Lalu, apa kedua nama tersebut hanya menjadi pembeda penyebutan tenun dari asal daerahnya saja? Atau memang kedua jenis kain itu punya  makna dan karakteristik yang berbeda?

Yuk Sobat pencinta tenun, mari kita simak ulasan singkat ini. Sebenarnya antara songket dan kain tenun ikat memiliki perbedaan bukan hanya nama penyebutan saja. Namun, saat ini kebanyakan kita belum mengerti betul cara membedakan tenun ikat dan songket. Perbedaan itu bisa dilihat dari segi berikut:

Teknik pembuatan

Kain songket dibuat dengan menggunakan benang pakan dan lungsin. Pakan yaitu benang yang posisinya bebas dan letaknya mendatar pada kain. Sementara lungsi benang yang terikat pada alat tenun dan posisinya tegak lurus atau vertikal pada selembar kain.  Pada kain songket untuk membentuk corak motif kain biasanya menggunakan teknik anyaman dari benang pakan. Karena sehelai benang pada songket hanya memiliki satu warna saja. Sehingga permukaan selembar kainya memiliki anyaman benang yang timbul.

Sementara, pakan pada kain tenun ikat memiliki beragam warna dalam satu helai benangnya. Misalnya sehelai benang itu sebagian berwarna putih, hitam atau merah tergantung dari pencelupan. Teknik pewarnaan itulah yang menjadikan corak pada selembar kain. Sehingga dalam proses tenunnya benang pakan memiliki permukaan yang sama dengan benang lungsi sebab tidak dianyam per benang.

Lama Pengerjaan

Karena songket hanya memiliki satu warna pada sehelai benangnya, waktu yang dibutuhkan untuk pengerjaannya pun menjadi lebih lama. Paling cepat bisa dkerjaka dalam waktu beberapa minggu. Kalau corak nya rumit pengerjaannya dapat memakan waktu berbulan-bulan atau bahkan tahunan.

Sementara, tenun ikat karena sehelai benang bisa memiliki ragam warna, pengerjaannya pun menjadi lebih cepat dari songket. Teknik ini sama seperti pada pembuatan sarung tenun. penenun bisa menyelesaikan selembar kain dalam waktu beberapa hari.

Alat

Alat yang digunakan pada kain songket umumnya masih menggunakan alat tenun tradisional. Kalau di Bali disebut alat tenun cakcak, di Jawa dengan sebutan alat tenun gedog, atau di Lombok dikenal dengan alat tenun sesek/nyesek. Alat itu sangat tradisional. Biasnya digunakan dalam posisi duduk lesehan. Teknis nya pun sangat manual. Benang pakan dimasukkan melewati benang lungsin dengan tangan. Sedangkan kaki penenun tidak bergerak.

Tenun ikat menggunakan alat yang lebih semi otomatis. Penenun biasanya menggunakan alat tenun bukan mesin (ATBM). Penggunaan ATBM membuat selembar kain tenun selesai dalam waktu lebih cepat. Sebab anyaman benang pakan pada lungsi digerakkan dengan bantuan alat mekanis sederhana yaitu tuas yang diinjak oleh penenun.

Nah begitulah sobat pencinta tenun tips singkat dari tas tenun Boyanese Bags untuk membedakan kain tenun songket dengan tenun ikat. Tetep cintai kain tenun Indonesia supaya tetap lestari. #saveourtenun

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